On our third day into the absolutely spectacular holiday at the Club Mahindra resort in Corbett we decided to take an elephant ride into the Sitabani reserve forest. Legend has it that Sita lived here when she was pregnant with Luv and Kush and since the jungle didn’t have much to offer in terms of comforts and nutritious foods, the forest obliged with a stream of three components- milk, water and honey. Unlike the other forests where open gypsies are able to navigate, the Sitabani is impossible to navigate by road, because there isn’t any. So the only way to go into it and maybe spot the elusive tiger is to ride on another creature of the wild- the elephant. Our time for the elephant ride was 3pm to 5pm, a time when animals come to the water hole to drink before dark sets in. We had heard that a tiger with his kill was spotted the previous afternoon. But instead of photographing this precious event for posterity, one of the women taking that ride had fainted with fear and the rest got busy reviving her so that she didn’t fall from the elephant and end up being the Tiger’s breakfast! Talk of a wasted opportunity! And so the four of us (only four on an elephant) went to Dhikuli, a place from where we would embark on this adventure.
We chose a nice, tall, healthy looking elephant called ‘Laadli’. The name, usually reserved for sweet little girls seemed quite incongruous with the elephant’s size. Maybe she was a young elephant? The mahout said she was about 50 which was quite old even for an elephant! We were made to sit on a ‘machaan’ or wooden block tied to Laadli’s back like a saddle. The four of us had to sit two on each side, with our feet dangling along her flanks. Not the best of positions to be sitting in for the next two hours. But for the likes of us who get tossed around in and out of potholes in Mumbai everyday, this was a piece of cake. And so once we settled down, our journey began.
The mahout would prod Laadli on the head with grunts of what sounded like ‘haggadh’- which must mean ‘move along’ in elephant language. Our trepidation soon gave way to excitement and exhilaration. I felt like a kid on a Ferris wheel or one with an unlimited supply of chocolates and ice creams. The fresh, cool wind was whipping my face and the Sun was playing hide and seek among the trees. I felt quite majestic looking down on most houses and people. One of the things that impressed me was the relationship the mahout shared with Laadli. He would sometimes chat with her like an old friend, sometimes cajole her like a desperate boyfriend and sometimes chide her like a parent. It was a unique, symbiotic relationship. The mahout told us that Laadli was part of a circus for 25 years before she was brought here and she had been with him ever since, for the last 10 years. He stayed away from his family in Ghaziabad, so Laadli was family to him.
We came to the point where we had to cross the Kosi river. The descent looked steep and narrow and we were quite worried how Laadli would be able to do the descent without toppling over. But it was amazing how Laadli managed to do it gracefully, goaded delicately by the mahout. And even though we were at an incredibly daunting angle, we felt very comfortable. We were quite happy to be right side up again, though. The river was very shallow but we could see the dangerous currents quite clearly. We were struck by the beauty of the miles of white stones along both banks, formed by centuries of differing tides and weather. Meanwhile, Laadli didn’t want to move on but wanted to play in the water and relieve herself. We reached the other bank only after a lot of gentle coaxing. On the other side we were told to keep quiet as we were entering the main forest area. That was quite a feat for the four of us, who could easily put a gaggle of geese to shame with the racket we make talking to each other incessantly. Our topics of discussion seamless and never ending, like the flow of the Kosi.
When the dense forest enveloped us and even Laadli looked small among the tall, thick trees we stayed silent out of the awe and respect we felt for nature. It also scared us a bit. After all if something untoward happened to us at that time, nobody would be able to help or even reach us in this amazing maze of trees. Laadli had no such fears. She ripped through anything in her way making her own path. I felt pity for all the majestic, wild creatures which were kept caged and tied in zoos and circuses for our entertainment. This is where they all belonged. It was also amazing to see the agility Laadli had in her movements. My friend Manisha’s cap got caught in a branch and fell down. We thought it was as good as lost- a piece of civilization left behind in the wild. But our mahout wouldn’t hear of it. He made Laadli turn 180 degrees at a very sharp angle to retrieve the cap. She picked up the cap with her trunk and flicked it back into the mahout’s hands with élan. We were a strange bunch, clapping softly in the middle of a forest at an elephant which had performed a smooth circus trick! Laadli was manoeuvred back 180 degrees to get onto our previous route. [ SUV makers should study the ‘elephant model’ to get the impossible U turn Laadli had made in such minimal space with such a huge body !]
We went ahead. Time almost stood still and the silence was serene. We saw the skeletal remains of the tiger’s kill, left over from the previous evening; a skeletal head of a Sambhar on a tree, quite likely a Leopard’s prey. We spotted a large brown owl sleeping on a branch of a tree. It opened its eyes just enough to give us a cursory glance and then went back to the more important task of catching its twenty winks. We saw many deer with beautiful eyes filled with sadness and fear, constantly aware of the dangers around. The mahout philosophized that God had created some creatures only to be killed by others; they was no joy in their lives. Profound! But sadly, the wonderful creatures which were created to kill these wonderful creatures, were being hounded and killed by God’s worst creation!
We were nearly at the end of our two hours in the forest when we spotted two huge Sambhars near the bank of the Kosi. We decided to stay with them for a bit. The Sun was nearly about to set. A beautiful light spread across the river banks. Undeterred by our presence, the Sambhar frolicked in the water. It had no worries which meant the Tiger was not near. But we didn’t mind not spotting a tiger. We were just happy to exist in that space, for that time, witnessing nature at its best. Our being doctors, actors, singers or anything we had acquired, didn’t matter. We had a sense of profound peace. I, for one, have never experienced such a one-ness with the supreme being in any temple, church, gurudwara or dargah. We reluctantly went back to Dhikuli not wanting the ride to stop. Laadli gave us a royal salute at the end of our journey. We wished the mahout well and went back to our resort.
Whenever I feel the city stress I shut my eyes and allow the mahout’s voice to come back; ‘haggadh, haggadh’ And Laadli’s on her way! I carry this piece of forest with me…. always.
